reservations

August 21, 2009

Cocktails: Sabai Sabai Mekhong

The national spirit of Thailand makes its debut in Vancouver

Alexandra GillBarfly

From Saturday’s Globe and Mail

Last updated on Monday, Aug. 24, 2009 03:04AM EDT

Sanafir Restaurant and Lounge

1026 Granville St.

604-678-1049

www.sanafir.ca

The firewater that has fuelled the all-night revelry of countless full-moon beach parties has landed in North America.

Mekhong, the national spirit of Thailand, made its debut in New York last fall and was officially launched this summer at Sanafir Restaurant and Lounge in Vancouver, the first Canadian city to offer the product.

Though widely considered a whisky, the amber-coloured liquor infused with herbs and spices is primarily distilled from sugar cane and is closer to rum.

“Yet it doesn’t taste sweet like a rum,” says Jim Shelton, head bartender at Sanafir, where the Sabai Sabai, a traditional Thai welcome cocktail, was poured for the launch party.

There will undoubtedly be some bartenders and tipplers who still queasily associate Mekhong with the gut-churning Phuket Buckets (shooters mixed with cola and Red Bull) of their youthful sojourns in Southeast Asia and steer far away.

But when not quaffed in copious quantities with whatever illegal drugs were added to the toxic holiday stew, Mekhong is actually quite a pleasant, well-balanced spirit with a surprisingly light viscosity and complex toffee aroma. It makes a versatile base for exotic elixirs.

“It’s unique,” says Shelton, who has been experimenting with a mojito-style drink blended with muddled apple, spiced maple simple syrup and the charred limes that the kitchen uses for its homemade hummus.

“The limes are charred on the grill until they’re almost black and caramelized. It really complements the sugar cane and gives the Mekhong a much richer flavour.

“Of course, we might throw around some Phuket Buckets when it gets really crazy in here late at night. But I definitely wouldn’t call those cocktails.”

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